A vehicle history report tells you what was reported. A mechanic tells you what's actually there. The gap between those two things is where used car buyers lose money. This checklist covers both — what to check yourself and what to have a professional verify.
Rule #1
Run the VIN check before anything else. There's no point inspecting or test driving a car with a salvage title, flood damage, or an active lien. Check the history first.
Exterior inspection
Walk around the car in good lighting
- Check panel gaps — uneven gaps between doors, hood, and trunk suggest prior body work or collision damage
- Look for paint color variations — mismatched panels indicate repainting after damage
- Check for rust, especially along the rocker panels, wheel wells, and undercarriage
- Look for ripples or waves in body panels when viewed from a low angle
- Check that all glass (windows, mirrors) is intact and free of cracks
- Inspect headlights and taillights for moisture, cracks, or yellowing
- Check tires for even wear — uneven wear suggests alignment or suspension issues
- Look at the tread depth — all four tires should match
Red flag
Overspray on rubber seals around doors and windows is a sign the car was repainted — possibly after an accident the seller isn't disclosing.
Interior inspection
Check everything inside
- Test every button, switch, and knob — windows, locks, mirrors, AC, heat, radio
- Check for musty or mildew smell — a sign of water intrusion or flood damage
- Look under floor mats for water stains or rust
- Check seat condition, adjustment mechanisms, and seatbelts
- Test the sunroof/moonroof if equipped — open, close, and tilt
- Check dashboard for warning lights when you first start the car
- Verify the odometer reading matches the vehicle history report
- Test the horn, hazard lights, and turn signals
Under the hood
Engine bay checks
- Check oil level and condition — dark black oil isn't a problem; milky or foamy oil is (head gasket issue)
- Check coolant level and color — should be green, orange, or pink, never brown or rusty
- Look for oil leaks around the engine, valve cover, and gaskets
- Check belts for cracking or fraying
- Look for corrosion on battery terminals
- Check that the VIN plate on the engine matches the dashboard and title
- Look for fresh paint or new bolts around structural components — signs of frame repair
The test drive
Drive at various speeds including highway if possible. You're listening and feeling for things that photos and history reports can't show.
During the test drive
- Listen for knocking, rattling, or grinding during acceleration
- Feel for vibration in the steering wheel — could indicate alignment, balance, or brake issues
- Test brakes at various speeds — should stop straight, no pulling or grinding
- Test all gears — automatic should shift smoothly with no hesitation or clunking
- Drive on a straight road and let go of the wheel briefly — car should track straight
- Test the AC and heat for full function
- Listen for wind noise or rattles at highway speeds
- Check that the check engine light stays off
Walk away if
The check engine light comes on during the test drive, the car pulls hard to one side under braking, or you hear a metallic grinding noise when stopping. These are expensive repairs that the seller should disclose and address before you buy.
Get an independent pre-purchase inspection
This is the step most buyers skip and later regret. For $100–$175, an independent mechanic (not a dealer's shop) will put the car on a lift and inspect it properly. This is the only way to catch issues that a visual inspection and test drive miss — oil pan leaks, brake pad thickness, suspension wear, and more.
How to do it
Find a shop near the car's location on Google or Yelp. Call ahead and ask if they do pre-purchase inspections. Ask the seller if you can drive the car to the shop or have it towed. Any legitimate seller will agree. If they refuse, that's your answer.
Before inspecting any used car, run the VIN on our Vehicle History page first.